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Our HCR Control Arms Review, First Impressions

The superiority is evident from the second you take these out of the box…

First Impressions

Rating: 5 out of 5.

Service and Shipping

Rating: 5 out of 5.
Part Type Weight (lbs)
RZR XP Trailing Arm (Mid-Travel)22.0
RZR XP Control Arms (Mid-Travel)25.5 (Total)
RZR XP Radius Rods (Race-Links)2.8 (EA)
Can-Am X3 Trailing Arms (72″)29
Can-Am Control Arms (72″)27 (Total)

This isn’t our first rodeo when it comes to using aftermarket chassis components for our UTVs. Up to this point, we’ve had a handful of other brand’s parts installed on our rigs- we won’t name names for the sake of this article but we’ve utilized 3 other brands (before HCR) and, obviously, the OEM. We know the shortcomings of each and when it comes to this topic we are well versed, to say the least. That being said, from the second we pulled our new HCR components out of the box we were beyond impressed with the craftsmanship and sheer structure. While we all know that these are expensive parts, atleast compared to other alternatives, we’re pretty confident we can convince you that the benefits far outweigh a couple dollars in cost savings. Read on and we’ll tell you exactly why.

Between the TIG welded seams, structurally-redundant plating, and CNC-crafted ball joint slots, these arms meticulously bridge art and performance.

-Draco Motorsports
Other Aftermarket Part (Left), HCR (Right)


We absolutely love the bulk of these arms. Unlike many chassis components on the market, the HCR equipment is not overly lean. These HCR parts effectively brace popular bending/breakage areas and utilize excessive diagonalization to combat the adverse effects of torsion. It’s blatantly obvious that no expense is spared during the manufacturing process- ultimately, this sort of attention to detail is the difference between a component that will outlast your UTV or one that will eventually leave you stranded.

In our experience, we notice that many of the other popular control and trailing arms on the market try to satisfy too many goals at once- they want to be lightweight, overly structural, and efficient on bracing/gussets to keep costs low (for the company and, in turn, the consumer). The issue with this ideology, on other aftermarket components, is that compromises must be made- you can either perform one goal exceptionally well or ten goals moderately decent.

Round Tube or Boxed?

Approximately 80% of aftermarket arms for your SxS are constructed out of round-tube. Often times, the tube is of a much thicker wall (0.125″ or so) than the OEM (usually 0.060″ to 0.075″). The outer diameter of these arms are usually larger than OEM. From an engineering standpoint, the greatest adversary to bending, with round tube, is outer diameter- modulation of this characteristic has the most pronounced effect on preventing your arms from crumpling. Unfortunately the second you ding one of those tubular arms against a rock, you exponentially decrease the rigidity of your control arms. Why does this occur? Consider the transfer of force like the flow of water- it runs against the path of least resistance and doesn’t like interruption. When a tubular arm becomes dented, the path of least resistance (where this force then focuses) centers at the ding- a small lever arm, where bending/moment can occur, is effectively generated. Some people run control arm skids to prevent this occurrence, others make the switch to boxed control arms (like the HCR). Boxed control arms, particularly when they are internally gusseted, maintain structural integrity on an entirely different (and much more complex) set of principles.

So What’s the Catch?

Compared to OEM, these will be approximately 12% heavier. If you’re trying to build the lightest possible SxS- you may need to look elsewhere. The way we look at it, however, is it’s not about how fast you can go, it’s about how long you can go fast. These parts are built to let you go fast for as long as your heart desires. The cost can be another stumbling block for some. To this point, we’ve almost had our car completely totaled from failed chassis components of other brands- the HCR may be pricey at first but will save you some serious headache in the long run. It’s tempting to cheap out but don’t make the mistake we once did- if you like riding aggressively with your UTV, get a set of HCR and don’t look back.

Greg Torney View All

Driver of the #428 Draco Motorsports Polaris RZR. Co-Driver for the #804 Can-Am X3 during King of the Hammers. Ultra4!!

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